Sunday, July 8, 2012

MY LOVE/HATE RELATIONSHIP WITH CHILEAN FOOD






Chile is not a gastronome’s delight however there is enough here to keep foodies entertained.  Seafood is more than abundant due to the close proximity of Chile’s coastline, and a quick browse in any market reveals types of shellfish that are not found elsewhere – even to me, a New Zealander used to many varieties of kaimoana.  This weekend marks Semana Santa (Easter Week), which culminates in a feast of mariscos and pescado (mussles and fish).  I’m not sure of the religious significance of this, but apparently it is a Catholic tradition that is upheld by the majority of the people.  The Mercado Central of Santiago is thriving with patrons readying themselves with preparations, and the news is rife with warnings about boiling the mussels before eating.  Raw seafood is a delicacy of Chile, especially on the southern island of Chiloe (the second largest island of South America) – ceviche, a dish of raw fish and lemon juice, is immensely popular but be wary – Marea Roja (Red Tide) is a vicious disease as a result of blooming algae and high sea temperatures in oysters, mussels and clams, which has been known to cause severe illness and even death.   In addition, Chile is the second biggest exporter of Salmon in the world, and the South is the place to find truly delicious (and very cheap) dishes utilizing it.  Chupe is a seafood casserole served in clay bowls, in particular Chupe con Jaiba (crab) is especially delectable.  

The island of Chiloe is noted for blessing mainland Chile with Curanto, which is traditionally cooked underground like a Maori hangi.  It consists of all types of seafood with chicken and meat and is truly a sight to behold.  It is served throughout southern Chile, however it is rarely cooked the Chilote way.

Mote con Huesillo is one of my favourites.  It’s an interesting concoction of dried peaches and huesillos (a type of wheat) in sweetened peach juice.  This food-within-a-drink is available everywhere at roadside stalls and is absolutely delicious.  Fresh juices are equally abundant and the many varieties are thanks mostly to the influence of Ecuador – in particular, frutillar (strawberry) is a true thirst quencher.  The water in Chile is generally safe to drink, despite being contaminated with fluoride (whose arm of influence is ever reaching it seems). 

Travel shows always feature the completo – Chile’s signature hotdog – which is served everywhere and gaining in popularity (indeed, Chile’s fascination with fast food has seen it become the sixth most obese nation in the world).  There is even a national day of the Complete, which sees thousands queuing up and numerous eating competitions (and much drinking for the students!).  The traditional completo is a gooey, artery-clogging feast, featuring a frankfurter, a bun, gallons of mayonnaise and mashed avocado.

Lomo a lo pobre (literally ‘poor man’s steak’) consists of a plate of greasy chips topped with a chunk of steak and a fried egg – not particularly inventive but its filling and real ‘man’ food.  Expat Chilenos salivate at the sight of this dish.

Dining in Chile always begins with white rolls and pebre – which is, in my humble opinion, the best thing about Chilean food!  Pebre is a spicy mix of cilantro, tomatoes, lemon juice  and onion, and it is slightly different in every restaurant you go to.  It is YUMMY!

The German influence throughout Southern Chile has meant that the moist cake known as Kuchen is extremely popular.

Typically, Chileans have bread for breakfast, a big lunch involving meat and lots of tea and coffee.  “Once” is very popular.  There are all sorts of theories as to how it got its name as it doesn’t take place at eleven, but to be honest, Once’s take a while to get used to.  Instead of having dinner, many Chileans partake in a repeat breakfast of bread and tea/coffee.  Chileans rave about their staple bread – the marrequeata – which are two rolls joined together into a bunch of four.

Porotos Granados is a traditional Chilean dinner of beans with corn and potato, and probably one of the few vegetarian options available.  Porotos con riendas is another variation containing pasta and dried poroto (brown in colour). Many suburban eateries do not have menus either, and usually have a deal consisting of juice, salad and the meal of the day.    A note on salads:  Chileans have bizaarely boring salads – think just iceberg lettuce or onion – and covered in salt and lemon juice.  They put lemon and salt on everything (EXCEPT on tomatoes)! 

Palmeras is a popular snack which is basically just pastry covered with sugar;  sopaipilla is a roadside snack made of fried flour with Manteca (vegetable oil); Berlin in a small hamburger filled with manjar (very sweet evaporated milk, used as a spread) or crema pastelera.   Ubiquitous to South America, the empanada is obviously prevalent in Chile and umm, YUM!  They are very similar to an English pasty, and the meat ones always contain a single olive.  Anything can be made into an empanada but my favourite is cheese with prawn – it is basically like going to heaven with a single bite. 

Chileans eat a lot of avocados, usually with salt and lemon, mashed up over marrequeta bread.  In general, Chileans use a crazy amount of lemon and salt.  If any readers are dating a Chilean, you need to acquaint yourself with Chilean food – the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach they say, and most guys are accustomed to the amazing cooking of their mothers.

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